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Arts & Life Featured Study Abroad

A Year in Amman: Studying Abroad

 

Courtesy of Laura Razzuri ’14

Laura Razzuri
Contributing Writer 

I arrived in Amman at three in the morning. Jetlagged, nervous and incredibly excited, I made my way through customs and into a new world that, for the next year, I would call home. On my drive to my apartment I looked out and saw all the shops, restaurants and big city lights. There was a beautiful balance of modernity and tradition, and I could feel the call to prayer reverberating through the city. I knew right then and there I had picked the perfect place to study abroad. Living in Amman was going to be challenging, yet the challenge was exactly what I was looking for.

Amman is the capital of Jordan, right at the center of the Middle East. Jordan isn’t in the “safest” of neighborhoods, as it shares borders with Israel-Palestine, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Syria and Iraq. Despite the unrest in the region, Jordan has been relatively calm. In a region so volatile, Jordan considers itself the eye of the storm, experiencing peace compared to the extraordinary changes happening around it. As an interdepartmental Middle Eastern studies major, there has never been a better time to study Arabic and the Middle East. I was encouraged by my advisors to take full advantage of the opportunities I would have in Jordan.

Courtesy of Laura Razzuri ’14

I have been studying Arabic at the University for the past two years. Despite it being a small program with no official minor yet, it is on the forefront of Arabic language study. Arabic is one of the most difficult languages to learn, and what many don’t understand is the difference between Modern Standard Arabic (Fusha) and the Colloquial language (Ammiyya). Traditionally, most universities only provide courses in MSA, which is the formal written language used in official documents. On campus, Assistant Professor of Arabic Martin Isleem also teaches the Levantine Dialect (Palestinian, Jordanian, Lebanese and Syrian) in tandem with MSA. Ammiyya is the language that dominates everyday interactions. For those who want to live in the Arab world, learning Ammiyya is more than necessary.

Courtesy of Laura Razzuri ’14

In my program in Jordan, I am the only student who has taken a formal class in dialect. The incredible advantage I have over my peers is my ability to communicate with local Jordanians. I am able to give directions in taxis, order food at restaurants, navigate grocery stores and bargain for good prices. It is amazing how quickly I became comfortable living in Amman. I cannot thank Professor Isleem enough for emphasizing the importance of learning colloquial dialect. I have been placed in the most advanced courses due to great preparation I had before coming here. It has made all the difference in my experiences here in Jordan so far.

For my first semester, I am in a Diplomacy and Policy Studies program. My professors are notable former diplomats that provide great insight into the field, with a Middle Eastern perspective. Every week I get to meet former Prime Ministers, Intelligence Officers and members of the Royal Family. I also have been placed in an internship. I work for a local non-profit that focuses on fighting corruption. I am getting firsthand experience in working abroad in the Middle East. Next semester I am taking courses at the University of Jordan. It will be a full Arabic immersion program. I will get to live with a family and truly work on my Arabic language skills.

It has never been a more perfect time to study Arabic and the Middle East. Middle Eastern culture is widely misunderstood, and the best way to break the barrier of cultural understanding is through language. Arabic itself is a critical language and will only continue to grow in importance. The region itself is facing remarkable changes and it’s only wise to be on the forefront of this up and coming area of study. I am thankful for having such a strong background in Arabic language and for the support the University has provided me in exploring my academic interests.

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Arts & Life Study Abroad

Coasteering in Cymru

Courtesy of Rochelle Volmerding ’13

Rochelle Volmerding
Contributing Writer

I spent the fall of 2011 studying abroad at University College London in London, the United Kingdom, as a part of Arcadia University’s College of Global Studies program. Abby (a fellow UCL student from Brandeis University) and I decided to travel to Cymru, or Wales, as it is most commonly known here.

We took a train from London to Haverfordwest (Welsh: Hwlffordd), which is in a southern Welsh county called Pembrokeshire, home to the UK’s only coastal national park. After thankfully not getting run over by Welsh people in cars driving through roundabouts, we caught a bus from Haverfordwest to St David’s (Tyddewi). It actually is the smallest official city in the UK, and is the site of the final resting place of Saint David, the patron saint of Wales.

Courtesy of Rochelle Volmerding ’13

The next day, we decided to go on an early morning hike along the coastal path. The coastline was breathtaking. Since we were in a national park, it was virtually untouched, dotted only by the occasional Welsh farmhouse. There was something magical in this place, and I can’t exactly place it. I’m not sure if it was from the windy cliffs with the soft, lush green grass, the wind-eroded rocks scattered along the land or the wild Welsh ponies that were literally right in front of us.

After lunch, we went coasteering, which is a combination of rock climbing, swimming, diving and pure adrenaline. It was pioneered right here in Wales over 25 years ago.

I have a fear of heights, but I felt safe going with our trained coasteering guide, Jon, who knew the safe places to dive into the water, as well as where we would not be disturbing the wildlife. After climbing down the rocks near the water, our first task was to jump down nearly three meters into the cool Atlantic. I gingerly gathered my courage and jumped. The feeling of the water rushing around me was refreshing and exhilarating. Jon told us the first jump was always the hardest. We then jumped and swam into a little inlet Jon called “the Toilet,” where the little channel caused the water to rise and fall by about five meters, making me feel as though we were in a whirlpool. Being (safely!) at the mercy of the waves was quite an unusual experience, but it was probably the most fun I’ve ever had in my life.

What I found the most fascinating about coasteering was how up close and personal I could to get with a marine ecosystem. We used the kelp that was attached to the rock walls to pull ourselves up onto the dry rocks, and it was amazing to see how strongly the kelp was attached. We used the barnacles on the dry rocks as grips to prevent ourselves from falling into the surf. We also swam inside of a cave, where the waves carved out a cathedral of rock from the inside.

Before we took the train back to London, we explored St Davids a little more, and went to the church service at the local cathedral. It was nice to visit the church and experience it for the purpose it was built for: worship. Interestingly, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is actually a member of the congregation there.

After having proper English (or I guess Welsh) tea and Welsh Cakes (which were sweet pancake-shaped biscuits), we caught the bus back to the train station for a long ride back to London.

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Arts & Life Study Abroad

Study Abroad Back Page

By Beth Eanelli, ’13

There is a city built around a mountain…

I spotted Table Mountain about 10 minutes before I descended into Cape Town, South Africa in January from a plane window. In the span of my semester abroad, which is quickly coming to an end, I have come to recognize that Table Mountain is more than just a natural wonder and environmental anomaly, but the center of culture in this city.

Right outside of the city center is Khayelitsha, Cape Town’s largest township, with homes made of metal scraps form neighborhoods complete with barbershops, convenience stores and schools. Although the townships are residual from the racial segregation in South Africa during apartheid, they still exist, and a staggering percentage of Cape Town’s population lives in these communities. The townships’ residents see the flattened top of Table Mountain and the city below as a symbol of the racial tension that plagues South Africa.

Some of Cape Town’s most beautiful places utilize the mountain as a backdrop, such as the beaches and gardens. Surrounded by mansions, five-star resorts and staggering beauty, these places are havens in Cape Town, but reminders of the disparities in South Africa. between the rich and poor, the townships and wealthy neighborhoods, the perfect landscape and perpetual poverty.

I walk up the base of the mountain every day to the University of Cape Town. I am taking classes about poverty and culture in the country and spend my days reading and socializing on the main quad, which has picturesque views of the city. I am surrounded by South Africans, Zambians, Namibians and students of every nation in Africa representing every sub-culture of this continent, speaking different languages, all with a common goal of greater knowledge.

I love the way the mountain looks different from every part of Cape Town, and from every form of transportation. When a taxi is stopped at a light, beggars come to the window, dirty palms held out in a plea for coins. Pickup trucks speed down the freeway, with people packed into the open back like sardines, clothes pulled taut from the wind and locomotion. I can see the geological mound change shape from a train window as it twists and turns around the mountain and as children laugh and run around. Locals dressed in all types of uniform sit and chat in Afrikaans, Zulu and isiXhosa as they make their way home from work.

I can see the mountain from the porch of my house. I wake up to the rising sun illuminating it in neon orange and go to sleep knowing the mountain is resting below a blanket of Southern Hemisphere stars. When I leave Cape Town to travel on weekends, the best part about coming back is seeing the outline of Table Mountain: a symbol of the place I have learned to call home.

My favorite place in all of Cape Town is the top of Table Mountain, where I can see the entire city sprawled in a semi-circle around the mountain. I love watching the sun set into the ocean and subsequently seeing the city lights turn on, transforming the city into a sparkling, luminous display. I first reached the summit on my third day in Cape Town. The top of the mountain reminds me of how much I have learned since that third day. I now can name most areas of the city, point out landmarks, and all of the restaurants, markets and museums I have grown to love. Being abroad in a developing country has taught me more than I ever could have learned in a classroom. Every day in Cape Town makes me question humanity, culture, race, equality, and my place in the world. From the top of the mountain, I can see how invaluable studying abroad has been for me.

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Arts & Life Featured Study Abroad

Memories of Italia!

By Zack Beltran

Contributing Writer

Last semester, I had the privilege of studying abroad in Florence, Italy. Being Italian, I was so excited to “go home.” I could not wait to eat pizza, pasta and gelato every day, visit all of the major sites and “be Italian!” And that’s exactly what I did.

I studied abroad at Syracuse University in Florence, with eight other University students. During my experience, these students (and many other young adults on the program) became some of my best friends. We laughed together, ate together and traveled to eight countries and twenty-five cities together.

While in Europe, I visited Italy (obviously), France, England, Ireland, Malta, Germany, Austria and the Vatican. I ate crepes in Paris, pasta in Italy, schnitzel in Austria and pretzels in Germany. We visited the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Colosseum, Big Ben and Buckingham Palace, just to name a few. I went shopping in Paris and toured the very green hills of Ireland. I had the perfect European semester abroad!

While I can look back now and say that studying abroad was one of the best experiences both during college and in my life (I want to go back!), it definitely had its challenges. Going to Italy, I had never even taken an Italian class and was nervous to interact with the locals. I eventually began to learn more and more of the language and felt comfortable in Italy.

Like anything that pushes you out of your comfort zone, studying abroad has challenges that reap great rewards. After my return to America, I feel so much more cultured and have a new appreciation for the luxuries we have in America and at the University.

I’m studying economics and sociology here, and I believe that studying in Europe has further enhanced my education. I can use my knowledge and experiences from abroad in the classroom and extra-curricular activities as well as my job search. For anyone considering going abroad, I think that it is definitely one of the best decisions you can make. No matter where you choose to go, whether it’s Italy or down under in Australia, you will learn so much about a new place, a new culture and yourself. You may never want to leave, but coming back to the University is always great! Going abroad literally gives you the best of both worlds.

 

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Arts & Life Featured Study Abroad

An immersion in Italy

By Courtney Flagg

Editor-in-Chief

I can take away a lot of things from my time in Italy. I remember sipping espresso at a bar in a forgotten alley behind a magnificent basilica. I remember wandering the rows of fresh produce in the daily markets in Piazza dei Signori and Piazza Erbe in Padova. I remember getting hopelessly lost in the streets of Siena and miraculously making it back to catch the correct train home. My memories are laced with beautiful images of classic Italian architecture, rolling hills and snow-capped Alps. But my most important abroad experience can’t be expressed in a picture or in a simple, but pretty, description.

The Italian town I studied abroad in was not like Rome, or Florence, or Milan, where English is just as common as the national Italian language. In Padova, a small fraction of the population speaks English. Many shopkeepers, restaurant owners and coffee baristas don’t know English at all, so speaking Italian is absolutely imperative in order to function as a regular member of society.

I had been warned before leaving the United States that the program I was to participate in was a real immersion program. But it took nearly my whole five months abroad to completely understand what that meant.

Of course, the first few hours I spent with my host family when I arrived in late January were uncomfortable. It seemed like the Italian I had been studying the past two and a half years had completely escaped me. I couldn’t form coherent sentences and found myself speaking a mixture of Spanish and Italian in my jittery state, leaving my host family very confused and myself completely frustrated.

I spent the first few days in Padova timidly avoiding having to speak Italian at all for fear of making grammar and vocabulary mistakes. I would craft grammatically perfect sentences in my head so that I could whip them out at my host family’s dinner table while eating gnocchi alla romana or melanzane alla parmigiana. I carefully planned my studying of the street graffiti peppered around town so I didn’t have to interact with locals. These habits lasted approximately four days.

After only a few days, I saw a dramatic change in my speaking and understanding abilities of the Italian language. It didn’t happen on purpose, and it wasn’t planned on my part. It just happened. It was like a switch in my brain had turned on. Slowly I found myself thinking in Italian. I no longer had to think about what I wanted to say in order to say it. Words left my mouth confidently, and I was surprised to find out that I was forming coherent sentences with them. I was finally able to understand my hyperactive, fast-talking host sister, who, according to my host mom, Italians couldn’t understand.

When my parents came to visit me in early April, I brought them to meet my host family. I was deep in conversation with my host dad and was addressing my American dad throughout the conversation, asking for his input. Frustrated by my father’s lack of participation I turned to him only to realize I had been speaking Italian the whole time and my American parents had no idea what I was asking them.

I can’t count the number of times I have invented new English expressions because I forgot the corresponding English word. I once told friends from my program that I had to ‘do a brain appointment’ so I wouldn’t forget to ‘do check-in’ on a RyanAir flight. English translation? “I need to remember to check-in online for my flight to Istanbul.”

Yes, I will always remember the crystal blue waters of Capri, crossing the Ponte Vecchio at night, and first laying my eyes on the Coliseum. But what remains engrained in my mind is the way I was able to haggle over the price of a leather jacket, avoid the tourist fee for museums and gossip with my host sisters because of my ability to speak the native language.

It has been said multiple times, by multiple people, in multiple ways, that spending a semester abroad ‘changes’ you. I refused to believe the cliché that so many people affirmed and hopped onto the airplane to Italy last January convinced I would come back the same brazen, sarcastic and jaded girl that left the United States. I proved my stubborn self wrong.

When I arrived back in the United States in June, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of déjà vu. I was having issues communicating with my American mother and father during the 40-minute car ride from JFK airport to my home in Westchester, N.Y. I was frustrated because I couldn’t say what I wanted to. Except the language I was having trouble with wasn’t Italian, it was English.

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Arts & Life Study Abroad

My Journey Around the World

By Kaitlin Segal

Contributing Writer

Twenty-two University students (and more than 550 students from other colleges and universities) boarded the MV Explorer in Ensenada, Mexico for the Spring 2010 Semester at Sea voyage around the world. On that first day, I knew three fellow University students, and by the end of our adventure, all 21 (and a whole group of students from literally all over the world) were my family, new life-long friends and fellow voyagers who transformed my life. We all came home knowing that Semester at Sea allowed us to see the world from diverse and new perspectives that differed greatly from our isolated and personal perceptions.

When the news traveled across the world, all the way to us on the high seas, that Semester at Sea was disqualified as a Universty abroad program, my heart broke. The outpouring of support was the catalyst for reinstating the program, and I was thrilled, as this experience changed my life. I saw myself growing as a person and learning so much just after the very first international port in Yokohama, Japan. Now that I have cruised around the world, departing from my last port in Salvador, Brazil and reentering the United States in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla., I can truly say I learned more in that semester than I ever have or possibly will in any educational setting.

As I began my studies aboard the MV Explorer, my floating campus for over three months, I continuously learned about issues of poverty, sustainability, disease, race, religion and so much more. True, some of the information I may have already known, but to be immersed in these countries that suffer from such poverty and disease, and to get to know the people, the information and emotions took on new meaning and understanding.

I saw and felt the pain and suffering of human beings that no classroom lecture could possibly replicate. We studied about apartheid in South Africa, and then we saw and felt its after-effects as we walked through Cape Town. I read and heard about the extreme poverty and disease in India, but reading, researching and hearing of these issues cannot compare to my walking through the slums, smelling the urine in the streets and witnessing people walking by me with leprosy. These are just a handful of the daily eye-opening experiences I had.

The professors on board challenged me to open my mind and to absorb and immerse myself in the different cultures of the countries we visited. They encouraged me to go out into the field and use this new knowledge and to be unafraid of the unknown.

I have experienced new cultures and customs as I have navigated the world, and I will never forget the impact that so many wonderful people and opportunities have had on me. I have a new sense of confidence and independence that is the direct result from being a Semester at Sea student. I can and will travel, independently, anywhere in the world, and I know this was not something I could have done if I had chosen to study abroad in just one country. That being said, I am thrilled that this opportunity is possible for future University students because Semester at Sea has changed my life and made me into a better person.

 

Photo captions:

1. Group photo of the students, faculty and staff from the Spring 2010 Voyage

2. Skydiving over the North Shore of Honolulu, Hawaii

3. Hiking the Great Wall of China

4. Jumping in front of the majestic Taj Mahal

5. Habitat for Humanity in Ghana

6. Ruins of Angkor Tom, Cambodia with my dad for Parents’ Weekend

7. Palm Tree Orphanage in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

8. Moyo Tree House in Cape Town, South Africa for traditional food and dancing with five fellow University students. (From left to right: Kaitlin Segal ’11, Tom Stoddard ’11, Kelly Smith ’11, Kathleen Janosco ’11, Emily Hislop ’11, Ellie McIntyre ’11)

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Arts & Life Featured Study Abroad

Adventures Down Under : Living Life in Australia

By Julie Kohn

Contributing Writer

“Root” in Aussie lingo means to have sex, “thongs” are flip flops, “lollies” are candies and girls with bangs have “fringe.” Stepping foot off the plane into the country of boomerangs, roos and koalas, I had a lot to learn. On my plane ride to the “land down under,” I held a feeling of uncertainty far greater than any I’d ever faced. I heard the “ding” as the “fasten seatbelt” sign lit up above me. The clouds broke and the deep teal water slapped against the fine white sand. I was looking down at my new home for the next five months. “Is this real life?” the guy behind me asked, and all of the Americans around me laughed. We were all astounded that we were not only privileged to visit this oasis, but that we were going to be exploring it for months.

My studies in Australia were structured so that I was able to travel often–and I did, stopping in New Zealand on the way home. I’d been on 26 flights within six months by the time I got home. Ask any of my University friends, and they’ll tell you I am a safe person, but something about being in another country made me feel like I was in a fairytale. In Australia I hopped with hundreds of wild kangaroos, jumped 14,000 feet out of a plane, held a fuzzy koala, scuba-dived the Great Barrier Reef, cliff jumped in the rainforest and slept for eight nights in the wild Outback. In New Zealand I whitewater rafted down a 21-foot waterfall, climbed a volcano, got pushed down a hill in a giant hamster-ball (zorbing), learned how to play underwater hockey and visited the Shire from “The Lord of the Rings.”

In Australia I was at first confused by the style of learning. But having little homework allowed me to understand that in Australia, living your life took a priority over studying every single night until 1 a.m. and fitting fun in on the side. The Aussies really do live life with “no worries.” Once I was able to understand their accents a little better I met a great group of girls who became my family there. I think they were just as interested in learning about American ways as I was in learning about theirs. What are squirrels? Reese’s peanut butter cups? Are there really fraternities? What’s a sorority? Sharing my culture became a part of our relationship as much as my learning about theirs. For Halloween I helped them carve pumpkins and one night we made (makeshift) s’mores.

Fast-forward to spring break: the Australian Outback. With my program of about 15 Americans we spent eight nights sleeping under the infinite night sky of the Outback: no civilization, no tents. This is when I began to taste the communal feeling the Australian Aboriginal people feel with their country. I sniffed in the red dust and gazed at the land stretching in front of our truck, layered in sharp spinifex grass, vast gorges filled with the magic of water and in the distance the sacred rock of Uluru.

When I had finally settled into my Aussie life, it was time to leave for New Zealand. I explored the north island of the great sheep country with friends from Germany and Taiwan. Our cheap rental car zipped (on the left side of the road) through mountains, along the coast and through the famous Lord of the Rings background. While eating Tim Tams (the famous Australian chocolate cookie) and looking towards the south island on our last night I began to hum “Hallelujah”–you know, that song from “Shrek.” To my surprise my friends began to join in. Three friends all from different continents, together in New Zealand, humming the same song. The world really is a small place.

When I got back to Lewisburg the administration asked what we had learned, and this is what I said: Vegemite on toast is equal to eating straight salt. If you don’t know what it is, don’t touch it, because it might kill or paralyze you. You need to be happy both independently and when with friends. Live your life first and do your work second.

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Arts & Life Featured Study Abroad

En Granada

By Wes Pyron

Contributing Writer

Simply put, I cannot last one full day without some sight, song, saying, or daydream that somehow warps itself into a memory of my time in Granada. The enthralling beauty of a Lewisburg sunset is comparable only to that of the sunset over the Alhambra; hearing “Stereo Love” while absentmindedly attempting to do homework in Seventh Street Café fuels a desire to dance like we did in El Camborio (half club, half cave, mind you). Even the Rooke Chapel bells tolling the University’s alma mater are distinctly familiar to a church I passed each afternoon walking home from class in Granada. Heck, even trips to Wal-Mart are sentimental; I can’t get past the produce section without reminiscing (Granada means pomegranate in Spanish).

My semester abroad was collectively the greatest experience of my life. To clarify, I use the term “collectively” because each day in Spain was a gem in itself. Granted, at the time, simple daily activities like walking to the post office, sprinting to a café between classes, and afternoons at Hannigan’s Pub (for the free wi-fi, obviously) seemed to be leisurely activities to speed the day along. Although the waffles in Belgium, fish-n-chips in London, gyros in Athens and pizza/pasta binges in Italy were unforgettable, it is those simple Spanish memories that I cherish the most.

Granada is one of the coolest cities I’ve ever been to. The historical relevance is captivating, as is the city’s sense of pride in its history.  Each new bit of information, each question answered and each visit to a historic building helped accumulate such a vast pool of knowledge that I often found myself wishing I had the rest of my life to wake up and experience Granada each day. (Sidenote: the Alhambra should be on your list of things to see.) This fortress is known as a “palace city” composed of a defensive perimeter, multiple palaces and El Generalife, which consists of additional palaces, gardens and orchards. The city of Granada is so culturally dynamic due partially to its diverse history of rulers. Since its establishment by the ancient Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, various Arabic dynasties, the Catholic Monarchs and Spain have all played a role in the city’s development.

Oddly, I miss the language barrier. I miss not being able to assume the ability to communicate. I miss repeating the same few key words over and over again, while simultaneously combining them with awkward finger pointing and hand motions. I miss ordering my food incorrectly and not having the bravery (or vocabulary) to correct it.

But more than anything, I miss the pace and mindset of each day. Despite severe lack of sleep for most of my time there, looking back I realize I was refreshed and spiritually content nearly every single day. The relaxed pace of the day meant that despite any upcoming exam, gypsy who felt the need to steal my iPhone, or stranger who wanted to steal my wallet in a club, today I would trade anything to be sitting along the stone wall of the Mirador de San Nicolas, waiting for that sunset over the Alhambra.

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Arts & Life Headline News Study Abroad

Revolution in Egypt: One Student’s Experience

By Eric Soble

Senior Writer

After three successive failures, Egyptians had almost made it across the October 6 Bridge from Zamalek, the small island nestled in the heart of Cairo. The bridge had created a bottleneck for the protesters, an obstacle before Tahrir that proved difficult to pass. Tear gas rifles popped in and out of rhythm, rubber bullets shot at close range, circles of Egyptians dragged bodies back from the bridge and handed them into ambulances.

All I could think of was that other study-abroad students in Europe were looking at thousand-year-old statues and casually observing Impressionist paintings. A weird thought for the time, I admit, but a thought that still stays with me.

I was with six other American students on Jan. 25. We were living in downtown Cairo in a small dormitory, fresh off the plane from JFK Airport, still learning our salutations in colloquial Arabic and getting accustomed to the general cacophony of the city.

As we walked down the Nile towards Tahrir Square on that Saturday, we realized the full extent of security detail. In every side street, there were barricades and around 30 policemen stationed at intersections. In front of the state-run media building, there were approximately 200 policemen in riot gear. This was a powerful aesthetic of oppression: the police guarding this tower symbolized the insane extent the government went to in order to maintain its power over the people.

A woman told us that we should leave the region along the Nile. This became increasingly obvious as we witnessed the beginning of the revolution. We had hurried onto a hotel roof to watch the beginning of what would be a multi-week affair.

The fight for the bridge seemed to last forever. Water trucks blasted water at a high velocity into the crowds. Egyptians hugged the ends of the bridge. Police were intent on holding their position and continued firing rubber bullets and tear gas canisters. These canisters would rise high in the air and fall to the ground quite suddenly, making them dangerous in more ways than one. A few of these canisters landed in the hotel, catching fire to some furniture. Tear gas clouded the roof of the hotel, and we had to go inside to escape it.

Tear gas is rancid. Water and masks don’t help; many protesters used vinegar on their keffiyehs, which seemed to work sometimes. It burns both your eyes and your throat and makes it absolutely impossible to see.

In the lobby of the hotel security guards were blockading the entrances. A protester had suffered a major wound to his head and was bleeding profusely. Police were directly outside, pushing back protesters and setting up blockades on the roads leading to Tahrir. It seemed we were stuck.

Once the line at the bridge was broken, chaos ensued. People in the front of the protest charged the police, forcing them to retreat from their previous positions. Egyptians broke curbs apart to make stones able to be thrown. They broke down guard stands (in Cairo, there are small individualistic pods for guards to stand in) and rolled them towards the police. People took control of the water trucks and pointed the hoses in the air. Egyptians overtook the military vehicles. Fired tear gas canisters were either thrown back at police or pitched into the Nile by brave Egyptians.

The sun faded behind the palm trees of the Nile. Some in our group wanted to stay in the hotel, but we ultimately decided to brave it back to our dormitories. The 30-minute walk proved quiet enough; there was no one in the streets because Mubarak had declared a curfew, but in the distance we could see the explosions of Molotov cocktails and hear the firing of guns. I have not forgotten the yelling and chanting that seemed to flow over the rooftops. Shouts of “huriyya, huriyya” (“freedom” in Arabic) continued throughout the night.

All the students in the dorm were crowded around the television in the main common room. The news was haunting: almost 100 killed, with thousands injured. We all stayed up early into the morning, listening and watching as the city outside of our door erupted. Egyptians, after 30 years, were demanding their rights without concession—and they didn’t plan on giving up any time soon.

The immediate effects of the protests were tangible, even in the early hours of the morning. The streets were empty; stores had either been ransacked or were closed. Broken glass was everywhere, and it seemed that the stores that were open had moved all of their goods inside, where they were less likely to be stolen. The grocery store, Metromart, was the only store of its kind that remained open. Most of the meat was gone, and there were no fresh vegetables.

Cairo had effectively come to a standstill. The government had shut down the Internet and all phone services. A few of us decided to go down and take a look in Old Cairo, off the island of Zamalek. Small pockets of protests were still going on, but the army had arrived and proved less hostile than the police. Oftentimes, they would join the protesters in chants. They often allowed Egyptians to climb on top of tanks and hold the Egyptian flag high. The distinction between the army forces and the police—which act more like Mubarak’s personal security detail—was not a distinction that the U.S. and the U.K. media made.

One event that sticks out in my mind occurred as we were proceeding back across the Nile to return home. Protesters were streaming the opposite direction towards Tahrir Square. Bullets from the previous night were strewn across the bridge. An Egyptian man suddenly began picking up these bullets as we approached, and he pointed to the blunt end of the bullets, saying “Look, American … America” in Arabic. As it turns out, the very bullets fired against the demonstrators were made in the U.S.A. I have never felt so disappointed in my country.

The next day, the State Department began evacuations. Buses lined our dorms as students swarmed to catch a bus to the airport. Leaving Cairo was like exiting a war zone. At every turn, there were huge tanks with handfuls of troops. One doesn’t really understand how gargantuan a tank is until it is up close. The streets were still relatively busy, but the tension was tangible. As the bus went up an incline near Suleiman’s castle in Cairo, I caught my first—and only—glimpse of the pyramids. After a split second, they were consumed by the foreground of Suleiman’s castle. I would leave Egypt without visiting its flagship institution.

The State Department evacuation line extended past the airport. There had to be a thousand people in this line that showed no signs of movement. We unloaded our baggage and queued for a plane. We only knew that we would be evacuated to one of three locations: Athens, Istanbul or Nicocea. We waited for 10 hours. As it happened, my plane landed in Istanbul. I had Internet, food and phone service. I ordered what seemed like the best pasta I had ever had. As I contemplated what I was to do for the next three months of my life, I turned on the television to see Egyptians still gallantly fighting. My heart ached for what had been my home for only two weeks. As is inscribed by Ramses II on Queen Nefertiti’s tomb, “My love is unique and none can rival her … just by passing, she has stolen away my heart.” I hope I will visit Egypt soon. May she be in better health and without her previous government.

[Editor’s Note: Eric Soble is currently located safely in Morocco and will continue his semester abroad there.]

Categories
Arts & Life Study Abroad

From Lewisburg to London

By Sarah Hasselman

Contributing Writer

Leaving Lewisburg, with a population of just over 5,000 people, and heading to London, one of the world’s largest cities with over seven million people was nerve-wracking and exciting. I had always wanted to go abroad for a semester, but it hadn’t yet seemed to work out with my schedule. The Bucknell in London program was the perfect solution, as it emphasized civil engineering and economics while studying the Olympics.

Who could have known that the group of engineering, economics, psychology and English majors would become so close with one another? Our group dynamic was something to be proud of. We did everything together, including eating, traveling and living in flats in Russell Square which was conveniently part of “Museum Mile.” We were within walking distance of all the major landmarks of London, including the London Eye, the Tate Modern, Parliament and “Big Ben.” We even walked past the British Museum every day on our way to class.

Even in a city as large as London, University students seemed to be everywhere. Not only were there 25 of us in the Bucknell in London program, but the alumni network in the greater London area was pretty amazing. One of my favorite memories of my semester was the alumni event at the Winston Churchill War Rooms. We had the opportunity to meet the alumni and show them what we had been up to in London during the semester. We highlighted some of our favorite memories including an American-style barbecue with hot dogs and hamburgers at Ron and Lynn Peterson’s estate in Wendover; both are alumni of the University.

The semester was a whirlwind, to say the least. Our group sure got a taste of the European part of the world. We all traveled to Paris, Barcelona, Edinburgh, Brighton, York, and Manchester (to name a few). We had a 10-day break where our professors encouraged us to travel some more. I was able to go to Venice and Rome in Italy and then to Prague in the Czech Republic. In Barcelona, Spain we learned that a three-star hotel was much different than a three-star hostel. I also got to practice my high school Spanish while ordering paella at a restaurant and ordering a chocolate croissant at a café. I rode a gondola in Venice while the gondolier sang “That’s Amore” in Italian. I saw the genuine Mona Lisa in the Louvre in Paris, and the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican in Rome. I even got to eat pasta for every meal while in Italy.

Exploring didn’t stop even when we would head back to London. My courses had a platform of civil engineering but were anchored by courses in theatre, and art and architecture. Every week our entire group saw a different British-style play and went to a different museum with our classes. My favorite play was “Faust,” where some of the stage was above the audience’s head on a netted platform and the actors were extremely acrobatic. We discussed all the performances in our next classroom session, which taught me that there is much more to theatre than New York’s Broadway musicals. The learning experiences didn’t stop at the theatre; Professor Richard McGinnis and Professor Jean Shackelford, with the support of Professor Jeffrey Evans, established an amazing learning environment where the entire city of London became our classroom. We could discuss something in class such as the structure of Parliament and then go take a tour of the Parliament building and meet with a Member of Parliament, or MP, to discuss her duties in her career. Clearly, learning became more than punching numbers into a calculator and writing papers; it was a holistic experience where everything I visited and everything I saw enhanced my learning.

All in all, my time abroad was incredible, interesting and necessary. I could not have imagined a better experience, nor could I imagine making better friendships with the students and professors that were there to share the experience with me.